Leave for 3 minutes and then remove film, pour water down both sides of film and then hang to dry. Remove film and place into a jug filled with plain water and Photoflow. Thoroughly clean all part of the tank (including lid, etc)įill the tank with plain water and return the films.įill the tank with plain water and invert 10 times.įill the tank with plain water and invert 20 times. This is:Īfter fixing take the film out and put in a plain water holding bath. I found that a slight variation of the Ilford wash method worked best for me. I surmised that fixing had little to do with removing the dye and that people were reporting they needed to fix for far longer because of the residual presence of the dye.įinally, for testing the archival permanence of the Ilford wash method, I used the HT-2 (Silver nitrate and acetic acid at 28%) residual hypo test. I then tried fixing for less than the clearing time (i.e insufficient fixing) and found that with enough washing the dye was removed. You can test fixer with a 1% solution of silver nitrate. I believe I used the three main methods for testing the fix: What I did was to test how much fixing was needed, how much exhaustion occurred and what was going on with the pink dye.Īs I said, these test were done a long time ago. Thirdly, that the pink tinge indicated insufficient fixing (longer fixing times?). Secondly, tabular crystals dissolve mainly along the edges and this causes the crystals to be more difficult and slow to fix in the fixing stage (longer fixing times?).
Firstly, they used dyes so that less silver was needed (shorter washing times?). Iwas prompted to find out for myself as there was a lot of conflicting information when T-Max and Delta came on the market. It is a long time ago that I did the tests. Your films will be both clear of the purple tinge and processed to archival quality. Then wash according to the Ilford wash method. Return the film to the Rapid Fixer and agitate constantly for 2 minutes. Repeat this as often as required to get rid of 90% of the purple tinge. If the film still has a purple tinge then move the film to a second water wash and agitate constantly for a further 2 minutes.
Move the film to a water wash and agitate constantly for 2 minutes. Use fresh Rapid Fixer for 2 minutes with constant agitation.
Presoak your film for 2 - 3 minutes (almost every photographer has a different opinion about presoaking but I have always done this with no detrimental affects and it does reduce the level of purple dye AND, when reusing a two-bath developer - which is my standard developer - it keeps Bath A clean). What is happening here is that the sensitizing dyes require longer immersion in a liquid to dissipate. Simple testing shows that this is not the case. This is a myth that has been perpetuated since the films were first introduced as is the idea that the fixer gets exhausted quicker. Yet another in agreement that T Max DOES need considerable more fixing
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